The meandering
road twisted and turned through thick fog and a green river peered in and out
of sight as we wound our way up the Feather River Gorge to the Sierra Nevada
mountains. This was unfamiliar terrain for Jok Jau Evong, long-time native land
rights activist from the rainforests of Sarawak, Malaysia.
There is a good
chance you have never heard of the Mountain Maidu, now a relatively small Native
American tribe, but before the first homesteaders arrived some 150 years ago,
thousands of Maidu roamed the entire range from the High Sierras to the Sacramento
Valley. They were migratory people whose roving patterns followed food sources
and seasons. Much like the nomadic Penan in Borneo, they were hunter-gatherers,
adept at surviving in a relatively harsh environment. As sago is for the Penan,
the Maidu staple was acorns, supplemented by mushrooms, greens, as well as fish
and game. After first contact with the Europeans, many died from disease, then
were displaced by the Gold Rush. When logging took over as the primary industry
in the Sierras, the Maidu were nearly wiped out. Today, there are several hundred
Maidu left, but unlike other federally recognized tribes, they were never granted
reservation land.
For Jok Jau, the
story of the Maidu strikes a familiar chord. As the frontier pressed westward,
the US government made announcements for those with land claims to step forward.
At that time, Native Americans had no knowledge of such notices and made no
claims. Thus, the land passed into the public domain for miners and loggers
to stake claims on the resources below and above ground. This progression of
events is hauntingly similar to what indigenous groups in Borneo have experienced
over the last several decades.
Led by visionary
coordinator Farrell Cunningham—who in his twenties is the only Maidu speaker
below the age of 70—the Maidu Cultural and Development Group was established
to restore 2,100 acres of Plumas and Lassen national forests. Under the management
of US Forest Service, this land became dominated by closed-canopy coniferous
forest intended for commercial timber. Although the Maidu staple food was acorns,
there are few oak trees left. In addition to the oaks, the Maidu would like
to bring back native maple and willow trees, as well as bear grass, used in
basket weaving. The Maidu Stewardship Project will use selective logging to
thin out the closed canopy to manage for understory plants which are important
for traditional medicine.
As the mist turned
to drizzle, we took cover under the spindly pines. We learned that the Maidu
are building a traditional ecological knowledge network amongst Native American
tribes across Pacific West. Their goal is to revitalize Maidu language, history
and traditional ecological knowledge, through teaching Maidu in schools, documenting
oral histories and cultural practices, and reconstructing a traditional homestead
for a "living village." Already, they have compiled a record of Maidu
place names and created a map of the region, re-establishing the connection
between their culture and land.
Jok was interested
to hear the elders tell the story of how Greenville went from timber boomtown
to one of the most economically depressed towns in the county, now that the
commercial timber is all but gone. With little economic opportunity for young
people, they migrate to other towns and cities. There is a Rancheria in Greenville,
which is a housing project, and a Maidu must become a member to be eligible
for special government benefits, including Health Services. However, Rancheria
membership does not give land or treaty rights the tribe or its members that
federal recognition would.
For Jok, the current
conditions of the Maidu tribe was a glimpse into a possible future for the indigenous
people in Sarawak. Already, the trends of cultural and identity losses are taking
place in his own native land as the forests around villages are disappearing.
Without land, loss of language and cultural identity follow. Even one generation
later, it takes enormous commitment and effort to regain the lost ancestral
heritage. This valuable insight further strengthened his commitment to the struggle
for native land rights in Borneo.
In celebration
of Jok’s visit, members of the Maidu community gathered for a feast featuring
traditional acorn soup. During the gathering, Jok, a master craftsman, met with
skilled Maidu basketweavers and compared traditional arts from Borneo. The meeting
ended with a final exchange of stories and thanks. The Maidu were deeply moved
by Jok’s struggle for land rights and cultural preservation on the other side
of the Pacific. Likewise, Jok was inspired by the commitment of Maidu youth
and elders alike to keep their rich traditions alive and thriving. |